For we American’s, unless you’re from what we would consider the Deep South (or the “real” south), you’re probably a bit unfamiliar with dish. This surprises me. The further inland ya go from any coast, it seems that smoking, grilling and deep frying tend to be the most common cooking methods. With catfish not being a coastal delicacy, I’d definitely think that even Texans would find smoked catfish in our known repertoire. We’ll throw anything in a smoker with Pecan Wood, and chase it with Dr. Pepper. -Sidenote, I’ll take a little lime and Henny in mine 🥃😍
Catfish is one of those sticky subjects. People judge you for eating it; then, they judge you if you don’t. With all of its connotations and distinct taste, I could truly understand why. I mean. It’s a bottom-dweller. Periodt. But, like Destiny Child’s Michelle Williams (who’s VERY much the Butterfly on Fox’s The Masked Singer -my favorite show, and my favorite competitor this year), it’s redeemed itself from a few falls in popularity and most of us quite enjoy it, though we don’t make a big deal about it. I love it, in fact.
It’s no surprise that catfish gets a bad wrap. Fish in general hasn’t always been the most widely accepted of food in “civilized” traditions. It was often related to poverty and the folks of lesser status in your local social structure. That would usually involve your majority of minorities (for Northern Europeans, that was Roman Catholics; for Americans, that was Native Americans, Black Americans and poor whites). Specifically referencing an affinity for catfish, which has been attributed to the Black culture for about as long as we’ve been here, Blacks did a bit a work to relieve ourselves of this negative affiliation. After all, the sum of pairing catfish (or fishing) and the Black man wasn’t too much of a good look here. Some religious teachings assisted in this ambivalence. But no matter its stance in the mainstream diet and opinion, catfish has remained a preferred entree in the Black American community. The Soul Food Era of the 1970s solidified this, introducing an explosion in the industrial food system.
Smoked fish was not unfamiliar to medieval European communities and many others. It was also quite common among West African traditions. Written accounts back to even 1678 document West African’s smoking fish (Dawson, “Enslaved Watermen”, 114), primarily for the purpose of preservation. In fact, both catfish and the smoking of fish were customs of West Africans and slaves alike. As a preference, the catfish species Crysichthys spp. is present in many West African dishes and stews.
For slaves, it was a matter of convenience. While building their little self-affirming empires, southern croppers came to view the locally acquired catfish as an economic blessing. It was in great abundance and not at all difficult to source, so of course it was a preferred option to provide for slaves, who didn’t have very much quarrel with it. Most were allowed to venture into the murk to catch their own. Deep frying required a few resources and space. Thus, drying/salting, pickling and smoking fish in styles which were well known was prominent.
There are quite a few techniques for smoking fish out there, and a couple recipes to work with. You can really do what feels right to you, though you’ll want to remember that dried herbs and spices will serve you best, and don’t forget to marinate! I cannot stress this enough. I know, my recipe is a little heavy on the spices, but don’t be afraid to but them. We’ll use them SO often here that they won’t go to waste. If you don’t want to go through the trouble, you can substitute the “½ tbsp” section for garlic powder, onion powder, smoked paprika; sub the basil, oregano and thyme for a sum of 3 tbsp of Italian Seasoning (keep the salt); all else would remain the same, your flavor profile just won’t be as complex.
Instructions
Prep
Gather all ingredient, two bowls (one small, one medium), and a large zip-lock bag or casserole dish
Arrange dry ingredient, combine in a small bowl; put aside.
In the medium-sized bowl, combine oil, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce and lime. Collect 1/3 of the above spice blend, sprinkle into your liquid and allow to dissolve as much as is possible, whisking to assist; put aside.
Wash and pad dry catfish fillets, place into a large zip-lock bag or casserole dish --wash your damn hands without touching anything-- and cover with marinade. Place in the refrigerator and marinate for 4-8 hours. Shake the pan, or "swish" the bag around every once in a while.
Work
Prepare your grill for smoking, however you see fit. Since the majority of my current audience is Southern, I don't think I need to elucidate too much. It is important, though, to prepare to indirect, moderately warm cooking. We do not want to smoke the fish for too long, or all you'll taste is smoke. We've worked hard to develop some complex and really pleasing flavors here; let's not lose 'em. Your choice of wood is up to you, as well. I find that fruit and tree-nut woods work best (apple wood, cherry wood, pecan [if soaked and used moderate]. Mesquite, hickory and the like are a bit heavy on the billowing and can easily "over smoke" the flavors of our fish.
As the grill warms, grab your spice blend, a cooling wrack and cookie sheet (or just the cookie sheet and parchment paper, but frfr....you need a cooling rack; they're like $5), and your fish.
Slowly remove fish (a fillet at a time) from the marinade and arrange on rack; shake off any excess liquids.
Sprinkle each fillet with remaining spice blend and allow to air dry as the fish comes to temperature -nearly 30 minutes. Don't think I'm crazy, but you do NAUGHT *in my best British accent* want to add cold fish to a smoking/warm grill.
Once dried, add your fish to the grill, being sure not to arrange the pieces too closely together. Seal that sucka up and let 'em burn for about 45 minutes or until fish is perfectly browned and flaky. During the last few moments, sprinkle just a bit of sugar on top and squeeze a fresh lime over each fillet. 🙌
This is an incredibly versatile entree, and could be paired with most anything, or even served as a taco (I'll show you how 😉). Feel free to dress it with your favorite bbq sauce, hot sauce or dipping sauce as well.
Thassit, ya'll. That's all I've got for today. I hope you enjoy!
Until next time, I challenge you to live good, to do good and to eat good. But above all else, from deep in my soul, I wish you happy feelin's. See ya in the kitchen!
-Julian B.
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